It’s minus a couple of degrees when we step into the naturally cooled cellar of Strathisla, Scotland’s oldest operating distillery and Chivas’s spiritual home. Our host Colin Scott, Chivas Regal’s custodian master blender, “walks the dog”—he inserts a copper cylinder into a cask to draw up a measure for us to sample. “What you’re going to taste now is something unique to this moment,” he says, “Tomorrow it will taste a little different because it’s maturing; each day, it picks more from the cask.” We’re being treated to the 38-year-old Royal Salute named Stone of Destiny, created in a world before the Internet and cellphones. So much of drinking Scotch is pure romance, I think as we share the notes we taste: spiced orange, ripe plums, a hint of smokiness.
Many say Scotch should be drunk neat or on the rocks or not at all—but not any of the Scots I met on that trip. “There are no rules, it’s your preference,” said Scott, topping the Chivas Regal 12 with ginger ale and a slice of pear. Another time, he served a highball with Chivas Regal Mizunara. A legend himself, Scott is one of five master blenders paid tribute with the Chivas Regal Ultis: a blend of single malts from five Speyside distilleries. So we listened when he told us to add a splash of water to a dram to open up its flavours, and found the tasting notes were clearer.
World Whisky Day
World Whisky Day, celebrated this year on 16 May, falls on the third Saturday in May. It was created less than a decade ago by a Speyside university student, Blair Bowman, but is already a celebrity favourite. Anyone can host an official event by registering on the official
website; over 300 events were held in 2019! The number one thing to do on World Whisky Day is to taste a dram at home, so we asked some of the world’s leading whisky brands for their views on the best way to appreciate the water of life.
“Contrary to people’s perception, there is no right or wrong way to consume whisky,” said Michael D’souza, master distiller at Paul John Distillery, Goa. “You can drink it neat, you can shake and make a cocktail, you can add ice to make it refreshing—however, these things are more suitable for blended or grain whiskies. If you want to experience the real flavour and characteristic of a single malt, then it has to be consumed neat or with a tiny bit of water just to release hydrophobic elements in the glass.” There are hundreds of flavour molecules present in whisky, D’souza explained, and adding ice to your single malt can inhibit the expression of aromas.
The way that people enjoy their Scotch is changing, notes Ewan Gunn, Diageo Global Whisky Master. “We know from records that even at the start of the industry, 500 years ago, Scotch whisky was enjoyed mixed with honey, lemon, herbs and spices,” he said, “That was the earliest cocktail and it’s definitely going through a bit of a resurgence right now. People often think of whisky as a drink for cold weather, in front of a roaring fire—and that can be lovely. To me, it’s beautiful that whisky is made in this tiny country in Europe and yet people in 200 countries take it and make it their own, both in terms of how they describe it and often, how they drink it. In the Caribbean and Latin America, they often drink Scotch with coconut water. In China and parts of Asia, they drink it with iced tea and green tea. In a lot of Europe, they drink it with soda or tonic or even cola. None of these are wrong, they are just distinct to that region.” On a hot sunny day, Gunn added, his preference is a Johnnie Walker Black Label with ginger ale: “It’s simple, it tastes great in a tall glass with lots of ice. Later in the evening, I’d enjoy a Johnnie Walker Blue Label, either neat or in an Old Fashioned. It works beautifully: it’s voluptuous, it’s got depth and richness but it’s silky smooth as well.” Another favourite is an espresso martini made with Haig Club. Bartenders initially look appalled when Gunn adds a mixer or asks for a single malt cocktail, Gunn said: “And then they try it and go, ‘That’s incredible.’”
Amrut, the single malt whisky by Amrut Distilleries, recommends people enjoy their whisky “neat in a small measure of 15-20ml, perhaps in a nosing glass like a copita or glencairn if they happen to have any, to explore and understand the robust aromas and flavours that make for an indulgent experience,” said Nikhil Varma, executive techno-sales. “Having said that, whisky is an extremely intimate drink for most; we are happy to see people enjoy their whisky as they like it best, be it in a cocktail, on the rocks or with an equal ratio of water, as long as they are drinking good whisky.” Varma has more guidance for the whisky enthusiast: “A dram pour in a glencairn, let it breathe for a minute or two, and add a couple of drops of water to allow it to open up and reveal subtle nuances of flavour. No ice, as it will desensitise the taste buds and constrict flavours.” For social drinkers: “Use a good-looking tumbler with an equal ratio of water, some ice, and on certain occasions, even a dash of soda.”
“To truly appreciate a whisky drink,” said Rishi Walli, marketing head at Beam Suntory India, “We recommend adding one-third water to the amount of whisky poured, as it brings out a whisky’s deep and delicately complex flavours. The ritual serving for Hibiki, our blended whisky from Japan, is a drink on the rocks with an ice ball. The spherical shape of the ice ensures that it melts slower, without diluting the whisky, making the drink a luxury to enjoy over time. For our bourbon whiskey Jim Beam, we recommend a highball, that consists of one part Jim Beam, four parts soda and a twist of orange. This refreshing drink sure uplifts the spirit of the consumer. Oaksmith, which is our first Indian premium whisky, can be best enjoyed on the rocks to bring out the true aroma of the drink.”